DeWALT Miter Saw Bearing Replacement

I exchanged some MLM tools: machinery today we're going to replace the bearings on your typical Dewalt miter saw first, I'm going to remove the belt cover and we're going to take off the bolt for the pulley. Then we need to loosen up these four screws, and now we need to loosen up the tensioner now we'll take all the tension off your belt, so we can get this out of the way. Now that that's done, we need to go to the other side. Now we got to take this cover off so we can get your brushes out of the way and you simply just pull them back. I like to spring flop down behind it. We need to take out your armature cover bolts, and we just need to push this out from the back and with that out of the way and pull your armature up.


As you can see, this is typically what happens to these bearings they'll seize and weld up, and basically, no more, no Bueno, typical, very burned out. You need to heat up this pulley just a little bit now. We just have to take off this retaining ring and back here is a little knob. You can just grab ahold pry it out with your little screwdriver and lift it up, and then you can walk it up all the way around now comes the fun part. We got to crack this bearing and then we can get to the inner race and pull it off. You will need access to some sort of ice that will allow you to pinch that bearing and split it in half now you'll need a small bearing puller, but you can get it most tools, supply places, and then you want to just pinch it around the rib. In the inner bearing race, now there are a few different ways you can go about pulling this off of here. You can rig up a device to hold this in a shop vise bench vise. A lot of people want to tend to hit this with a hammer. Don'T do that we'll paint it over! You can use a punch of brass punch. http://www.straightkerfs.com/single-vs-dual-bevel-compound-miter-saws/


A lot of guys will put the screw back in it and punch that, but either way, this has to come out of that race and we'll use our handy-dandy, bearing press and now what it comes. That is the old bearing seal which would still be on there. So make sure you take that off and toss that all the way to the back, bearing you can do the same way the same tool just get underneath it.
So you can pinch it now. We need to put the brains back on here's your new, bearing back on the same way. It came off with our press. Here we can do them both at the same time. You can put the other one on there and get it ready and then throw that one in there one squeeze back together and we're back in business. Now we don't really need the vise for this next step. However, it helps to be able to have both hands-frees. You have to put this ring back on, so we can start with the leg start that around the one edge and then just kind of walk it around once.


It'S all the way around and on just shove it down and it locks right in that groove and then we take your pulley. You got a keyway on each side, just make sure you're looking line it up. This will have to get tapped on I like to use something you can use a block of wood or a soft faced hammer when you go to put this back on. You can use a block of wood or soft faced hammer, but it's just got to get tap back down till it's flush, and then we had to put the keys back in. They usually drop right in and while that's out you have it locked clamped in, you can put the bolt back on then we're ready to throw it back in the machine.


We take our completed armature slide it back into the field, sure it seats in the housing. All the way, and then we just fish it through the hole. Now when you put these bolts back in, you have to kind of tighten them in a pattern, so it pushes so it pulls the bearing back into the house will go a little bit on that. One we'll cross this one come down to this one. Now we can drop our brushes back in place.
​This is a good time here to check the length of your brushes they're, getting about due to be replaced, it's probably a good time to replace them. While you have it throw our cover back on and we can throw our belt back on typically, while these bearings fail is because at the factory they seem to put way too much tension on the ben.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miter_sawelt.


So if you've got a brand new best compound miter saw or if it's never been serviced plan on having this bearing serviced, when we tighten it up, we don't put as much tension on it still has plenty of traction. However, it seems to be safer. If you have a kickback, it will allow all the motor to slip on the belt as opposed to forcing all that power into the into the blade. Now we got to tighten it back down, that's usually plenty of tension right there. We can throw a belt cover back on, and that is that, let's see if we did our job right and you folks are back in business thanks for watching. Please leave some comments down below here and we enjoy your feedback.